Friday, July 12, 2024

Began restoration of 1053 typewriter for VCF IBM 1130; might need brighter LEDs for the console

1053 CONSOLE PRINTER REMOVED FROM MACHINE AND PUT ON WORKBENCH

I pulled the signal and power SMS paddle cards from the 1130 and removed the printer. I brought it over to a workbench and removed the cover. With a hand cycle tool installed, it is ready for restoration. My initial visual inspection shows a machine in very clean shape, suffering mainly from solidified lubricants and disintegrating soundproofing foam. 

LUBRICATING FROZEN JOINTS AND GETTING THINGS MOVING FREELY

I began applying the ultra fine clock oil on every bearing and joint,  basically anything that has to move, in order to free them up. I worked each part to restore its normal range of motion and eliminate the friction of the old lubricants. 

There are thousands of parts that move in a Selectric mechanism, so this is a slow process but one that has delivered success many times before. Some parts are hidden deep inside with other mechanism blocking access - these are the most challenging to address. At worst case, I partially disassemble the machine to secure good access. 

TRANSPORT PULLEY HAS FAILED, A COMMON ISSUE WITH THE PLASTICS IBM USED

IBM built a few parts for Selectric using a nylon-like plastic. For the most part, these lose their plasticizer over the decades, shrink and eventually crack. Fortunately this does not impact the type elements ('golf ball') probably because the nylon is plated with a metallic coating to convince customers they are worth the relatively high prices that IBM charged. I suspect that this slows or blocks the outgassing of plasticizer. 

The main hub often develops cracks, producing a thump-thump sort of sound as the machine run. The other part that commonly fails is the transport pulley, a spring loaded pulley that keeps tension on the rope cords which pull the carrier left and right during typewriter operation. This was clearly broken on this machine. I have ordered a replacement and will swap it for the bad part once it arrives. 

NOT SURE THAT THE LEDS I USED WILL BE SATISFACTORY

I am still undecided about the LEDs I chose for the substitute bulbs. They are dimmer and more yellow than the incandescents. They will never look identical - if matching when statically lit, when the machine is operating with signals flickering on and off, they will be too bright compared to the fading of a traditional bulb. I am just looking for a result that is not immediately obvious and jarring. If it requires someone's careful examination to detect, that would be more than good enough. 

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